From January 1st 1864 to March 1st 1864 January 1st 1864 Why has society chosen to make the opening of the new year such a weariness and a burthen Carrie managed to get her drawing lesson this morning while Mr Marsh and I spent the time in making out lists of cards to be left. She too, hurried off to pay visits as soon as the Carriage was ready. While some other visitors were with me de Bunsen came in, stayed them out, and then we had a long hour's talk about what he has just seen in France, Germany and the Danubian provinces. France, he says, is stirred to her inmost centre with a firm purpose of obtaining more individual rights, more personal liberty, & he believes the Emperor will be wise in time, and grant with a good grace what is demanded. Therefore in France he looks for no internal disturbance that shall amount to violence. Of the Danish question I am sorry to see that he takes merely a German's view, but he thinks it may lead to a general war, though he looks to Hungary and the Danubian provinces as the points where the flame is most sure to burst out. He declares that the fact that all the sovereigns in Europe are surrounded by military influence, and advised almost exclusively by military men explains why Europe is always in a state of warfare, or on the eve of becoming so. Beside political matters we spoke of the great religious movements of the day with much hopefulness. Indeed, if I can judge from conversation with the most enlightened men and women, whether strangers or Turinese, that I see here, nothing can be more unfounded than the accusation, so frequently brought against our age, of indifference as to the great question of a future life. Mr de Bunsen gives even the Italian statesmen and men of letters credit for something far more like faith in Christianity as they understand it, than most persons have done. Of Cavour he says he knows this to be a fact: that in 1854 when he was about to press the passage of a law for the suppression of a considerable number of convents he sent for Padre Giaccamo, explained to him clearly what he was about to do, and his reasons for so doing, and ended by saying: You see my object is not to injure the Catholic Church, but to purify it, to remove only what is unnecessary and defacing, and consequently a weakness. Now, can you after this conscienciously give me absolution at my last hour. Father Giaccomo's reply was 'that he knew him to be a faithful son of the church, that though he might misjudge as to her interests he would never intentionally do her wrong, that he should therefore unhesitatingly give him absolution whenever he should be in circumstances to require it.' Mr de Bunsen added, that an acquaintance of his own, an attaché of the French Legation hearing, the night before Cavour's death, that the last rites of the church were about to be administered to him, went into the sacristy of the chapel, took a torch from the hand of a servant, joined in the procession, and with it entered into the room of the dying man. Cavour, he says, was sitting pillowed up nearly erect in his bed, the collar of his night-gown open, and the same friendly smile on his face that he wore in the days of health and activity. As the priest approached he covered his face with his hand as if to concentrate every mental faculty, then responded to the questions of his confessor distinctly and coherently - received the sacrament with the greatest apparent devotion, and when all was over leaned back on his pillow with the same tranquil, benevolent smile he had laid aside for a moment. This was at seven in the evening, and at seven in the morning he passed away. This story Mr de Bunsen declares he had from the lips of the attaché himself, and he fully believes it. As to the facts with regard to Cavour I suppose there can be no reason to question them as they are the same as stated by the Countess Alfieri, but I confess myself a little sceptical as to the part the attaché professes to have played. However one may almost say here that nothing is impossible / Mrs Tottenham made rather a significant remark here today. Speaking of a young English girl supposed to be about to marry a Piedmontese officer, she said: 'I wonder any English girl should be willing to marry an Italian officer now, it would be so unpleasant in case Italy should make war upon Austria to have her husband's country on one side and her own on the other.' Saturday Jan. 2nd. Mr Marsh came out about four o'clock from his Library into the drawing-room, and I said: 'I would not have believed that so much as a dog would have come out visiting in this dismal snow-storm! 'And did a dog really come?' he said with such a serious air as was beyond all comedy. 'No dogs,' I said 'but two or three very nice countesses, - the Bernes, the Della Rocca, and the third whose name had escaped the servants.' We had been sitting for half an hour trying to make up our minds whether it wouldn't be best after all to go back to the old system of receiving once a week rather than to be so constantly interrupted, when the door-bell rang again. Mr Marsh started. I said - 'don't go - the lamps are already lighted, it is just dinner-time, no visitor would come now.' 'It's another of your countesses, I dare say,' he said as he slipped quietly through the dining-room door, and at the same moment the Marchesa Mari was ushered in from the other side. She is one of my es- special favorites, but I don't know how it is, all these Piedmontese ladies bewitch me with their indescribable grace and delicacy. Sunday Jan. 3rd Neither Mr Marsh or I went out this morning, Carrie going to church with Giacchino for decorum. I felt almost too unwell to listen to reading at first, but one of Vincent's admirable Méditations soon made me forget my bodily aches. What a glorious thing it is to have left behind such thoughts - thoughts that can lift other poor mortals on their divine wings to such heavenly heights. Mr Clay interrupted our reading by coming in to say to Mr Marsh that he wished to return to America for a time at least as soon as he could get leave from the Department. Poor fellow! His family news is sad enough. A brother reported killed fighting against his country, and a sister losing her only son by illness. His mother's family nearly all ruined in Kentucky, and part of them fled to Texas. In the afternoon Mr Marsh and Carrie went to the Vaudois church. I stayed at home feeling so ill as earnestly to hope that the Baroness Hochschild would not make her proposed visit, which fortunately for me she did not. Monday Jan. 4th No visits except from the Tottenhams and Mme Giletta. - note from the Countess Maggiolini. In the evening Mr Marsh read some articles from the Revue Crétienne. Among others a short biographical sketch of the great Italian reformer Pallissario, in- -cluding those grand words of his - 'this is no time for a christian to die in his bed.' He also read a short notice of Saisset, the great Frenchman who died last week - a sad loss for philosophy and religion. We half expected to hear tonight that a collision had actually taken place between Denmark and Germany, but no such news came, and we are now inclined to adhere to our first opinion that mag- -nanimous England will compel Denmark, by the Note from a poor sewing girl of Piobesi, as a specimen of the nice tact and sense of propriety which mark every class of Italians. Piobesi Torinese il 1 geuio [gennaio] 1864 Stimatissimi Signori Oggi comincia il 1864 che ve lo auguro felice, e pieno di buone venture. La mia madre ed io tutta la nostra famiglia sono tutti in perfetta salute e vi inaudiamo tutti i piu sinceri augu- ri gli fo i dovuti rispetti e mi congratulo con le Signorie vostre, e vi auguro feliceme- nte un buon capo d'anno e salutate i Siguori vostri il Ministro la Signora e Signorina, Gaetano tutti indistintamen- te Accettate i miei saluti favoritenu delle vostreno notizie desidero di vedervi presto e mi protesto vostra umile serva devota Vardiero Maria Benedetta most disinterested advice of course, to submit to every outrage on the part of Germany, and that she will say to Italy in case she dares assert her rights to Venice: 'we can't allow you to make war upon Austria.' The conduct of England towards Austria can be explained only by the determination of the English aristocracy to sustain Austrian aristocracy, even if it is necessary to sacrifice every other principle she has ever professed. Tuesday 5th C. went out to leave cards as soon as the carriage was ready - returned quite chilled, the thermometer being little above 20 Fehrenheit. The Gajanis brought in their soldier-brother to see us in the evening - Mr Marsh, Mr Artoni & C. went to the Teatro Reggio soon after eight - heard Goudot's [Gounod's] Faust, and saw the much-to-be-pitied Doria. Wednesday, 6th Jan. This morning the papers are warlike again. England is said to have spoken out to Germany and to have ordered a part of her fleet to the Baltic - we are incredulous still. I was called from the dancing-room to see Miss Avezzana who brought a lady whose name had evidently been blundered by the servant. I thought it might be Mme Mancini and used all my diplomacy to find out in the course of the conversation, but could not. She was a great liberalist, talked of notre chère Duchesse de Bevilocqua, but still I could not quite make out, or rather admit to myself, that this was the great Sicilian poet. When she left I asked Mme Rothan who had come in during the visit, if she thought this could possibly be Mme Mancini. She thought a moment, and then said with a little hesitation: 'cela se peut, cela se peut; en vérité elle a bien parlé," but on cross-questioning Gaetano afterwards I found the lady was indeed a Sicilian, but not Madame Mancini - only Mme Del Careti, wife of the sufficiently conspicuous General. Thursday 7th I had sent my chair to the chapel where we go on Sunday intending to join Mr Meille's congregation there at three o'clock, when Mme de Hochschild sent me word that she wished to pay me a visit at half past three. It was difficult not to chafe a little under this, as it was the first time I have tried to go out for two weeks, but there was no help for it. Poor old Captain Crowther came in first. I have not seen him before since the death of his daughter six weeks after her marriage. His wife, he tells me, has never left their son-in-law since, always following him from garrison to garrison. Mme de Hochschild was followed almost immediately by Madame Elliot, whom she came to present. To my simplicity it seems very absurd that Mrs Elliot, after the cards that have passed between us, the many enquiries and answers about the sick child, the messages through Mrs Tottenham, &c&c - that after all these Mrs Elliot could not come to see me without having a lady to present her, but I ought not to forget that we Americans are but Hurons, and by no means competent to judge of the proprieties of truly civilized life - On the whole I like Mrs Elliot, for, when once presented, she behaved very much as any quiet American lady would have done. Mme Arconati has just sent me a note asking me to manage a meeting for her with Mme Rothan in my drawing-room. Here is another instance of etiquette which puzzles my semi-civilized head not a little. The Marquise Arconati, who stands as one of the foremost leaders of Italian society, a lady whose acquaintance any person in Europe might be proud to make, does not think it sufficient to send her card to Mme Rothan, or to signify through a friend that she would like to make her acquaintance; (or perhaps she thinks this too much of an advance on her part) nor does she propose to me to present Mme de Rothan to her through some friend who should take Mme R__ to pay her a visit, but she prefers to arrange a meeting in my salon. I have no doubt at all that this is quite in accordance with the nicest etiquette, but it puzzles me. Miss Arbesser spent the evening with us Friday 8th This morning, it being bitter cold for Turin still, I ventured out to take Mme Gajani to hear Ruscalla's Lecture on what constitutes nation- -ality. Mr Marsh presented us to the lecturer before he began. We heard much better than I expected, and really lost little except proper names, which he spoke hurriedly and of course with a pronunciation odd to us, and occasional words and phrases from the Sclavish languages, the various forms of which he ran through as they were found in other tongues. There were also certain slaps at the Jesuits which amused his audience generally, but the point of which we lost. He is an animated speaker, and we were much pleased on the whole. After the lecture was over I asked him to present his daughter to me which he did. She is an intellectual looking girl, and also writes herself for the Rèvista Contemporanea. Dr. Monnet came in this evening just as we were setting out for the first lecture of a series to be given at the Liceo, somewhat on the principle of English and American lectures. We were not particularly attracted by the subject announced for the first Lecture but decided to go for the sake of helping to make up an audience which we supposed would be scanty at best. The Dr. joined us, and on arriving at the Hall to our surprise we found it well filled with the very élite of the Turinese society. My first glance showed me half a dozen Marchese and Contesse whom I would have sworn were at the Teatro Regio at that moment. The ladies occupied the inner circles, the gentlemen the more elevated ones behind. Every person in the room was well dressed, and the whole appearance of the assembly was rather that of a fashionable private concert than a popular lecture. The orator of the evening came forward, made a short, but rather graceful preface in a subdued, drawing-room-tone of voice, & then began his reading. To a person accustomed to the stirring manner and matter of our Good American lecturers, such as Giles, Holland, Beecher, etc - the whole effect of this reading was really ridiculous. The subject, if it can be said to have a subject, [illegible] was certain sketches of individuals composing the Monelli family (an imaginary family of course) and then a narrative of certain domestic events and scenes, ending after the manner of the feuilletons of the day, in the betrayal of a husband by his wife, and the promise of the further history of the wife in a future Lecture!! - and careful mammas had brought their young daughters of from twelve to eighteen to be edified by this Lecture! It was really too absurd. I must however do the writer the justice to say that his style was admirable, his descriptions very pictorial, and a delicate vein of irony pervaded the whole com- -position. As the beginning of a novel of this particular genre it would have been most creditable, - as a Lecture it was below criticism. As I threw my- -self upon my bed after my return, and wrapped up my aching side with flannels I could not help feeling very silly at the sacrifice I had made to so little purpose. I was certainly not needed to swell the audience, and for the rest I had certainly really paid very dear Saturday Jan. 9th. Miss Todros came rather early to see Carrie, and was soon followed by her aunt the Countess - a Venitian. The Countess Castellani [illegible] Santoni came in during this visit and remained till after Madame Todros left. As soon as she was gone the Castellani asked her name. I gave it, looking at the same time significantly towards the niece, hoping I should be understood. "Todros," repeated the lady with a semi-grimace: alors "c'est une Juive alors?." I looked again at the niece who was luckily chatting away with Carrie, and said in a very low tone "Voilà la nièce!" Mme Castellani put on the most comic expression between a little mortification and a good deal of mischief - then went on to compliment the rare intelligence the Countess Todros had shown in her conversation. This was certainly no more than justice, for the countess had talked well, but the compliments were probably intended for the benefit of the niece. I like this pretty Castellani though she is, I fancy, not a little malicious, in the French sense. It is settled that I am to take her to Mr Matteucci's Lecture. By the way, the Todros says that the ladies who went to the Lecture Friday night and took their daughters came home furious at the character of the Lecture. I am rather glad to hear this for I was really afraid that most of the audience would think it all right. The Baroness Todros came to take away her daughter while Mme Castellani was still with me - so that she had an opportunity of seeing another of my Hebrew acquaintances. It amuses me greatly when these things happen. During the course of the day Mr Marsh had a message from the foreign office from which it appears they are in great distress about the Re d'Italia reported coulé au fond on her trial trip. He went directly over, took them some charts etc. Carrie went off with Mme de Hochschild at half past nine to a ball at the Menabrea's, and I went quietly to bed. Sunday 10th. Carrie came home at half past two, but was still ready and bright for a nine o'clock breakfast. I was not expected at the ball of course, and somebody graciously apologized for my husband with: "mais que voulez vous? c'est toujours ainsi avec les hommes serentipiques." Rustem Bey said his mother's physicians prescribed the Teatro Regio as the best medicine for her morale, - that she had been carried there from her bed two or three times, but that the last time she had taken so bad a cold that so far they had not been able to get her up again! C. and I went to church and I was glad to find that old father Brown's christian charity was strong enough to make him seem to forget my sharp talk with him the other day. After such a hearty hand-shaking all must be right I am sure, besides, Miss Nora presented her brother to me just as I was stepping into the carriage, and begged permission to bring him to see me. Mr Tottenham gave us a good sermon, but I had a better one still from Inquiring of Carrie about her partners in the dance, I was happy to find that poor Laura Savio, mentioned by Mrs Browning, has still one surviving son, Carrie was much pleased with him, and says he spoke of his brothers. Samuel Vincent after we came back. The Kossuths made their usual Sunday visit, and were full of lively talk. They gave a droll account of the behaviour of a mamma who had taken her daughters to the Lecture, and at whose house they paid a visit the same evening. They declare she actually cried with vexation - called poor Torelli un brigand &c. The application of this epithet quite upset Mr Marsh's gravity. I have seldom heard him laugh so. We have a telegram that the Re d'Italia is safe, at which we really rejoice. Monday Jan. 11th. I tried to hurry off a little piece of work this morning, which has been waiting for me three weeks, before it was time to dress to receive the Marchesa Arconati, and had scarcely finished it when a note was handed me saying she wished to come an hour earlier than had been settled, in order to bring Mr Castillia, who would have to go to the Senate at two. To notify Mme Rothan of the change and to get the drawing-room warm this bitter cold day took every moment till the hour arrived. Fortunately every thing went off smoothly. We were delighted to see Mr Castillia, and the two ladies seemed to take to each other at once. After a little while Mr Marsh took Mr Castillia to his cabinet, leaving us three ladies to ourselves for a good hour's chat. The Marchesa was quite enthusiastic about a manuscript she had just received from Mr Senior, containing many of his late conversations with distinguished French Statesmen, both those connected with the court, and those in the opposition. I could not help expressing my surprise that Mr Senior felt himself justified in circulating his notes taken in this way, but the ladies me that this habit of his was perfectly well-known, and that therefore there was nothing unfair in it. I confess this judgment was rather consolatory to me, who have often had misgivings as to whether I was justified in writing down so much of what is said in the freedom of conversation, even though what I write is intended for no eye but mine. The possibility that by some accident my journal might fall into other hands than mine, has frequently made me hesitate to write down many things that I knew I should wish myself to remember hereafter, but this gentleman, it seems, is thought to be fully justified in his course, which is, not only to take careful notes, but to put these notes into the hands of his friends. Our conversation was interrupted by a visit from Madame Malaret, a French woman in almost every respect the exact opposite of Mme Rothan - very plain, very free and easy but without the least dignity, with a volubility upon the most trifling subjects, which would be in the highest degree oppressive if it were not accompanied by a feeling of relief that there was no opportunity given for a reply. The announcement of another visitor gave those already with me a good excuse for taking their leave, and I was sure the Marchesa Arconati wished to get One of my visitors today speaking of La Doria, said in reply to the remark of another that she was kind and amiable, said, "Oui, c'est une dame sans fiel et sans sel." - away from the very first moment that the stormy French Baroness made her appearance. Later in the day the Baroness Visconti brought the Countess Maggiolini, a very lady-like English woman, married to an Italian codino - one of those nine-hundred-year-old pretenders whose sun is fast setting. I was so thoroughly tired out by dinner-time that I shrunk from the idea of going to the Lecture in the evening, but dinner and a cup of tea after refreshed me a little, and we hurried the abbé off just in time to get one of the last seats in the hall, There was a formidable array of man and monkey skeletons and Professor des Filippi did his best to make us believe that we were all descended from monkeys, and that we ought to be satisfied with so respectable an ancestry. The Lecture was certainly more befitting the occasion than was Torelli's, but to me it was dull and unconvincing. He gave us no new facts, and failed to answer the most important of Quatrefage's objections to this theory. Mr Marsh was too far off to hear him with anything like distinctness, but in my judgment he lost little. I had a word with Mme Arconati, both before and after the Lecture. Speaking of the two ladies she had met in the morning she said - "Est-il possible - d'imaginer deux personnes de type plus opposé - !" Tuesday Jan. 12th We had a wonderfully quiet day today, owing no doubt in part to the extreme cold. The thermometer at the Observatory being it is said at zero Fahr. this morning. There must be terrible suffering among the poor, for here even, with all our comforts, the whole household is complaining. The arrest of the three 4 Italians at Paris confessing the intention to have murdered the Emperor excites profound regret among all the friends of Italy, or rather I should say it is not their arrest, but the fact of the conspiracy that distresses them. Mazzini must be the maddest of madmen, and I cannot see how England if he continues to go on in this way, can fail to treat him as a madman, and shut him up where he can no longer put in jeopardy the lines of others in this way. It is dreadful to see this noble nature so distorted and ruined. This evening we read Ewald's terribly severe criticism on Renan's Life of Christ. It will no doubt do much to injure the popularity of this book. Wednesday Jan 13th Madame Pétrof spent an hour with me while the girls were dancing, and told me again the sad story of her sister's death from the diphtheria on the fortieth day after her marriage. No other visitors except the Countess Giletta who came for her daughter Thursday Jan 14th Mr Clay came in rather early this morning. He looks worn and anxious, but I hope he will not resign and leave us at Mr Seward's mercy once more for a successor. Still it is most natural that a Kentuckian should be unhappy away from his home at this time. This evening, notwithstanding the bitter cold - the thermometer almost at zero, - the Count and Countess Gigliucci came in to pass the evening with us. We enjoyed their visit not a little. The Countess is full of pleasant reminiscences of Charles and Mary Lamb, of Leigh Hunt etc. besides her own abundant stock of original remark. Mr Marsh says she is a 'real live woman', which means a great deal with him. We asked the Countess, when she was speaking of her long residence in Nice, if she knew the d'Abbadys. She said she was one evening presented to Madame, and sat by her on the sofa nearly the whole evening, during which time the lady entertained her with an account of a most melancholy affliction that had lately befallen her - the death of a lap-dog! Madame G__. listened patiently and sympathetically as long as she could, but at last finding there was likely to be no change of topic she ventured to hint that for her own part she did not much like lap-dogs - Madame d'A__. replied with some spirit - "moi, je les adore." - "Et moi, je les déteste" was the rejoinder, which proved a settler, for the ladies said no more. Some years after the Countess Gigliucci was on her way from Lyons to Marseilles by rail. The day was very hot, and the compartment already contained six persons when a gentlemen and lady, the latter holding a small basket, entered the carriage. The previous occupants had expanded themselves and their shawls as well as they could to prevent this addition to their numbers, but it was no use - there were no other first class seats, and they were admitted of necessity. No sooner however were they seated then the Countess G__. exclaimed "Mon Dieu, je sens un chien! Est-ce-qu'il y a un chien ici?" and she looked fiercely at the little basket The intruding lady looked deprecatingly, and then said coaxingly - "Mais, madame, c'est un tout petit, c'est un rien! "Mais, Mon Dieu, cé-serait impossible d'y rester avec un chien dans une telle chaleur!" and she called to the guard. The poor fellow, who had received his fee, and slunk away, was deaf as long as possible, but Madame Gigliucci's repeated demand 'Est-ce-qu'il est permis de porter des chiens dans les premières classes' had to be attended to at last, and the man was obliged to tell the lady that she must give up her dog, offering to take good care of it himself - "Non," said the lady decidedly, "s'il faut faire sortir mon chien, moi, je sors aussi!" and she left the compartment in high indignation - "Guess my astonishment," says Madame Gigliucci "when the lady threw up her veil as she stepped out, and I recognized Mme d'Abbady of Nice.! And, hadn't I unconsciously taken a most delightful revenge for that dreadful evening on the sofa!" If I could write as fast as Mme Gigluicci talks I should not content myself with recording only this one of the many nice little things she told this evening. Speaking of music we asked her opinion of Schoppin [Chopin] - "He was the first musical genius of his age" was her decision. "There is only one thing worse than French immorality - that is French morality." I am not sure whether Madame G__. originated or quoted, this aphorism. Friday 15th We went, with Mrs Gajani, to hear Veggezzi-Ruscalla lecture at one; Though we lost a good deal I still found the Lecture most interesting & I could not help telling Ruscalla at the end how much I was delighted with his appreciation of Kalawala. The Lecturer kindled with enthusiasm, and said he should have more to write on that exquisite poem before his Lectures were finished. We settled that his daughter, Miss Ida, should come and see me some Saturday. We tried to read one of her stories in the Rivista the other evening, but couldn't get through with it. The young lady is said to be highly gifted, and I have no doubt she is, but either her genius does not lie in the direction of romance, or she is very inexperienced as a writer. As I took Mme Gajani home, I stopped to inquire after the dear old Baron Plana, who is ill, and has been bled, the papers say, this morning. The Baroness did not send an unfavourable report of him, and I hope he may live in spite of these Turinese butchers: The idea of bleeding an old man upwards of eighty because he has taken cold! Mr Fogg - our minister from Switzerland to Berne, dined with us. He seems a sensible man, and sound in his politics. I wish he might do some good in Rome where he is going, but it seems now as if that miserable Hooker would have everything his own way, and succeed in ousting Stillman at last. Perhaps, now that Hughes is dead, and (an event which seems to give great satisfaction) it is possible that Mr Seward may be induced to adopt a different policy in Italy, but I fear there is little chance of it. We were obliged to excuse ourselves to our guest at an early hour, on account of Matteucci's Lecture. We picked up the Countess Castellani and were at the Hall at least twenty minutes before the hour, and yet all the best seats for gentlemen were already taken. The Countess explained to us that her family connexions generally would be dreadfully shocked at her going to such a place. It seems that my note to her in the morning had been taken to her sister-in law by mistake, and in this way, the startling fact of what she was about to do had got out to the great dismay of the family. "Ma Belle-soeur se ferait écorcher vive peu tôt que de se trouver a un tel cours!" She told Mr Marsh in the livliest way how arrierée all her family were, and said she had to thank God for a twelve year residence in Lombardy or she should be no better than the rest. When she ventures to criticise their illiberality a little, and tells them that the world must and will go on in spite of the efforts of the Piedmontese nobility to hold it back, they cry out: "Pour charité, Clotilde, pour charité, ne dites pas ces choses - là devant mes filles!" Among themselves they say, "Pauvre Clotilde, comme elle a la tête chaude! Dieu! Qu' est ce qu'ella va devenir?" The beautiful, lively creature gave me such a funny account of her reception of a dozen persons, most of them gentlemen, in her bed-room last evening. She was suffering from "Je suis regardée dans ma famille comme une femme pernicieuse" rheumatic pains in her shoulders, ordered her bed to be warmed, and went to bed, forgetting to give orders to say she was not well. She sprang into bed without making any change in her hair, waiting for her maid to come with brushes and night-cap, but scarcely had her head touched the pillow when the servant announced two gentlemen. "Of course" said the Countess in telling the story, "it was too late to decline their visit then, and as I had received these I was obliged to receive all others who came. "Et enfin, voilà ma petite chambre remplie de douze personnes, et mon mari, voyez vous, n'aime pas que je recoive dans ma chambre à coucher!" I record this as a specimen of Piedmontese habits, very puzzling to us. Perhaps I ought to put down as equally characteristic some of the gentlemen's remarks to her. When she explained to them that she was really indisposed, and had not intended to receive, they said "Mais, Madame, vous voilà toute coiffie, et reposant dans votre lit comme une jolie petite poupée - il n'y a de quoi doutes - vous l'avez fait exprès!" Saturday Jan 16. A light snow-storm, and few visitors today. Rustem Bey confirms Carrie's account of the Doctor's prescription for his mamma, who does not come round at all he says. I talked with him a good while about Turkish matters, and he declares the Empire to be rapidly strengthening itself under Fouad Pascha's Pacha's guidance, and making the best progress every way. He gave an interesting account of the father of Fouad, Isec Moolah, who was executed under Sultan Mahmoud. The Countess Beltrami was my only lady-visitor. Just as we were about sending to the station to meet brother Charles by the nine train, he made his appearance, having an- -ticipated us by taking the slow two o'clock line. We are delighted to have him here at last. He looks very thin, but otherwise seems well. Sunday 17th It was so cold this morning that I gave up going to church as I had intended. We talked over home-friends with Charles, - Carrie wrote a letter for me - & almost as soon as we were ready to sit down in the drawing room, the widely-famed Beatrice Mancini was shown in. When I have such visitors as this it makes me regret my own inability to go out and do my share in keeping up the intercourse Madame Mancini has such a large circle of acquaintance that it must be very difficult for her to make even return-visits, much less to go often to see those who never visit and can of course set up no claims. This charming woman did not disappoint me. She is still very handsome, with an expression such as you might expect from one who thinks as she can think and writes as she can write. She promises to come to me often and to bring her daughters for Carrie's sake, but I know it will be difficult for her to keep her promise. The venerable Castillia came to give Mr Marsh some information which Mr Norton of Cambridge has asked for. As I listened to him and watched his almost more than humanly benign countenance I could not help saying to myself "were there every confessors such as Italy's confessors?" Here was a man condemned to death in the very glory of his youth by an accursed [illegible] tyranny, the sentence remitted for a fourteen years' imprisonment in the Spielberg, then released only on condition of a distant exile, and yet this man stands before us without one line of dark and passionate resentment traceable in his countenance, without one drop of bitterness in his heart. One feels almost like falling on one's knees before such grandeur of soul. Monday Jan. 18th The papers say dear old Plana is worse this morning; I shall send at once to see. The post brought me a charming letter from the Baroness Gautier, as graceful and affectionate as she is herself. The cold is bitter this morning - the thermometer under the portici indicating [illegible] nine below zero of Fahrenheit. The news from Plana is that he is not expected to live through the night. His words when he came in to see me that last time seem to be about to prove prophetic. - 'I have come to take leave of you before I go up there' I believe these murderous doctors have killed him. Husband went to the Court-Ball this evening. We had no visitors except Mr Artoni who came in for a few minutes before going to the Mancini. He says the whole story about the late conspiracy against the life of the Emperor is a sheer fabrication so far as it relates to Mazzini. Mazzini's letter of denial might by many be regarded as inconclusive, but the whole story of his agency in the matter is so monstrously improbable that few are found to give any faith to it. Indeed, the general opinion is that the whole thing has been got up in Paris to give the Emperor the benefit of a temporary diversion of the public attention from one quarter to another. Tuesday Jan. 19th Another bitter cold morning - ther- -mometer nine degrees below zero under the portici - two below at the Observatory a hundred feet higher. It is hard work to keep warm and we grumble sadly ourselves, and lament over those who are worse off still. A poor sentinel was found dead at his post sometime in the night. Mr Marsh came home from the Court-Ball soon after midnight, waiting only for the King to retire. It differed from other brilliant shows of the kind only in this - that the King talked to several ladies which he has never been known to do but once before on such an occasion. The observed of all observers were Rattazzi and his noted spouse. She occupied a conspicuous seat in the Ball-room and Rattazzi stood by her for the first hour or two, then sat down at her right hand. During the three hours and a half that Mr Marsh was in the room he saw but one person speak to them - a lady whom he did not know. If this is an example of the way in which this interesting couple are treated generally I do not wonder that they are said to make a triste figure everywhere. Wednesday Jan. 20th [Image] This morning at half past nine a great light passed forever out of our human horizon. - Glorious old Plana has gone to his rest. Great men may arise to fill his place, but the like of him we cannot hope to see again. The city will do everything in her power to show that it is a grievous mourning to her. Another conspicuous person died yesterday the old Marchesa Barolo leaving a magnificent estate, it is said, to the King. It was with this lady that Silvio Pellico passed his last years, acting as her secretary, and it is with the servants of her family that he lies buried. I have taken much pains to ascertain whether this was really done at the earnest request of Pellico himself (as many declare) or whether it was merely the result of those sharp social distinctions which even ten years ago admitted of no modification. One thing is certain - the countess, though her early life was a life of pleasure, has devoted all her later years to the most extensive and noble charities. It is stated on what seems good authority that she has given yearly to the poor in house-rent along the sum of one hundred and forty thousand francs. The poor Marchesa Doria is once more in an almost dying condition - The Countess della Rocca and the Countess Radicati, speaking to us of her today said that she insisted that her sister, the Del Borgo, should go to the Court-Ball Monday evening because she wished to have the pleasure of seeing her toilette - that she hoped herself to be able to go to the next one, although her physicians gave her not the least hope of living through the week. And one of these ladies added - "Pauvre dame, naturellement elle a voulu profitter du peu de vie qui lui reste." I could find no words to reply to his remark - I was struck dumb - I felt that there was something wider and deeper than the Atlantic between New England and Italy. Thursday 21 The Gajanis, who spent last evening with us say they get the most encour- -aging letters from home. It was delightful to hear Gajani and his brother talk their beautiful Italian. Vegezzi-Ruscalla brought in his daughter this morning. She talks better than she writes, and on the whole I liked her much. It is amusing to see how both her father and she are swallowed up in Wallachia, both mounted on the same hobby, but it is delightful to see people in earnest about anything. In the evening all went to the Opera except myself. Friday Jan. 22nd. We went for Mme Gajani, then to Ruscalla's lecture-room but found there would be no lecture on account of Plana's funeral We could not see the connection, as this latter was to take place three hours later. After driving round the Piazza d'Armi we left Mme Gajani - and returned home - Gaetano went for his funeral- -torch, and this is all we were expected to do by way of honouring the mighty dead. I had scarcely got home when Mme Matteucci came in. She is really a woman of far higher stamp than I had supposed - morally I knew her worth, but her intellect and her accom- -plishments I had greatly underrated. She keeps her light quite too much under a bushel - thereby losing the social influence she might have which would be invaluable in a place like this. Besides, by making herself purely her husbands drudge, copying for him by night and by day, yielding to all his caprices, and patiently bearing all his sudden outbreaks she has lost her influence in a great measure over him. Thank God, I have no occasion to speak from experience, but it is my firm conviction that those wives who sacrifice themselves in this way to the unreasonable whims of their husbands do a serious injury to the man they wish to benefit, forfeit his respect, and make their own lives useless to him and to themselves. Mme Matteucci is very proud of her husband, and has good reason to be. He is a great man, but he would have a fairer fame if she stood firmly by his side, than he now has when she crouches at his feet. She made me a long visit; we talked of the Brownings with whom she was very intimate - she says the last letter Mrs Browning ever wrote was to her. She also told me of her mother's (Mrs Young's) two volume-book on Paleario and his times, and she promises to send it me. The old lady, now eighty I think, made all the vast researches which these books show, herself, and wrote every line of it for the press with her own aged hand. She then went to Cambridge and supervised the printing herself. Cantù has spoken of it with high praise. The Count and Countess Maggiolini came as Mme Mat- -teucci left. The Count is a hard dark-looking man, might be an Italian of Anne Radcliffe's imagination. - The Countess I fancy has seen storms, but she is evidently a high-spirited woman with good sense enough not to quarrel about trifles, and yet courage enough not to allow her heart to be broken, even by the man who supposes he has established un- -limited rights over her by giving her a five-hundred-year-old name, She asked many questions about America and our talk ended by her taking home Paris en Amérique. In the evening we went to hear Bon' Compagni lecture on Constitutions &c. Everything that verged on the haute société stayed away this evening for fear of hearing something that might shock their nerves. Nothing however could be more calm, more dignified, more free from everything ultra, that was this lecture. He dwelt on the dangers of inconsiderate haste in all questions of reform civil and religious, he maintained the Christian Religion to be the surest guide that man has ever received, or ever could receive, for his course in this life. It had proclaimed the true principles of civil and religious liberty, and had pointed out the way by which these blessings were to be secured. He then went on to show that the parasite superstition was growing in Italy by the side of this glorious plant and sapping out its life, that it was the duty of all great thinkers, of all earnest men, of all true patriots, to try to separate the true from the false, and restore the heaven- -descended vine to health and vigour. I have seldom seen a more striking-looking man - His dark piercing eye, his strong square jaw, his firm mouth, contrasted strangely with a trembling of the hand, and an agitation of the voice which indicated great nervous sensibility. He was not fluent, and nevertheless there was something about him which reminded me of Rufus Choate - perhaps it was the nervous manner more than anything else. He made on us the impression of a man who had studied carefully, thought profoundly, and who acted from the highest convictions of duty. Just before the Lecture began Matteucci came and shook hands with me saying with a most gracious smile "Ma femme vous donnera a que vous avez demandé - il y en a une expris pour vous" -. I understood in a moment what it meant. I had asked Mad. M. for an auto- graph of her husband for the benefit of the Fair for the Sanitary Commission to be held in [illegible] New York in March. He had given it, and one for me personally, Madame M. handed me the envelope, it contained 3 photographs with autograph signatures, 2 for the Fair, one of Massimo d'Azeglio the other of Matteucci, & a third of Matteucci for me. This is a good beginning of our quête and I hope we shall get treasures. Saturday 23 Jan. Like the morning of so many other days this passed till dressing-time I cannot say how. Mrs Colonel Mayhew came in almost as soon as I had taken my seat in the drawing-room. The young Countess Colegno, was my only other visitor till evening. This lady spoke affectionately of the Doria, said she did not go to Mrs Elliot's on her account, &c. She gave me the first intelligible account I have had of the Marchesa's illness - some having said she was dying of extinction - others of asphyxia. & Madame Colegno says her lungs are very seriously diseased, but water about the heart is the real malady of which she is dying. In the evening all but myself went to hear Ristori in Pia dei Tolomei. I was well repaid for staying at home by the most agreeable company of the Count and Countess Gigliucci. The latter had as much original remark and as much of interesting anecdote as usual. She is really delightful. Her frankness verges on bluntness sometimes, but her conversation is charming even when she expresses opinions very opposite one's own. She describes herself as a warm immoveable catholic, but no papist. If she but knew it, what she has taken away from catholicism leaves nothing but Protestantism. When I told her where the rest of the family were she said 'Ah I am sorry for them; - the Ristori of today is not the Ristori of ten years ago; - her acting has become so exaggerated that she who once made my tears flow uncontrolled now only provokes me to laughter - even in the most tragic of tragedies.' Mr Marsh and Carrie came home with exactly the same impression. Carrie says she made even the death-scene comic. And this the Italians attribute to the influence of French bad-taste Sunday Jan. 24th We all went to Church this morning except Charles, but Mr Tottenham's extempore sermon was by no means one of his best efforts. I was glad to see that Mrs Elliot was not knocked up by her party Friday evening, and was half tempted to give the promise she tried to get from me that I would come to one of the two following Friday-evening gatherings. Mr Marsh went to hear Mr Meille in the afternoon, and was nearly chilled through. They have no fire in the Vaudois church. The Duchess de la Force was announced about four o'clock. She came in a magnificent toilette which was becoming as well, and I have never seen her look so finely. She certainly is a most amiable person - kind to high and low, which makes one ready to forgive her much vanity and folly. She claims cousin-ship with the Malarets. In the evening we read a most interesting article on Vinet in the Revue des Deux Mondes written by a most liberal christian who nevertheless still calls himself a Catholic. Monday, January. 25th Mrs Tottenham dropped in after one of her morning rounds. She had a nice anecdote from Mad. Gigliucci. A lady caught a roieque rogue trying to pick her pocket in church - she resisted and used some vigorous language in rather audible tones. "Mais, madame" cried the thief, 'il ne faut pas faire tant de bruit dans la maison de Dieu!" While we were out driving the Countess Castellani came with her little daughter Inez, the juvenile poetess and we missed her of course. Early in the evening Baruffi called to talk over his irrepa- rable loss in the death of Plana. Poor man, he feels it deeply and seems to find his best consolation in telling what his friend was. Plana, he says, paid little attention in general to his classes, but once a month perhaps he would call them together for a lecture. At such times he was actually sublime, would take up an idea from the lowest & most hidden depth of man's nature and draw it out link after link in unbroken sequence till it reached the heavens, and all this in such a fiery heat that the perspiration would stand thick on his forehead, and not unfrequently he would throw off his coat and fling it behind his chair, never pausing however for a moment in the lava-tide of his eloquence. Sometimes his duties as Professor obliged him to examine students and of this he was very impatient. On one of these occasions, a student, who had already been examined by three professors and shown himself utterly incompetent, was brought before Plana. The old man had listened to the previous examinations and was furious that the student had presumed to offer himself for such a trial when he was so profoundly ignorant. "Take your chalk" said the indignant Plana, "draw a horizontal line on the blackboard." The young man drew a short line. "Continuez, continuez!" He continued the line till it reached the frame of the board. "Continuez, continuez," still shouted the angry master, and the student passed his line over the frame and along the wall till he reached the open door. Plana all the time crying out "continuez, continuez." When the poor fellow reached the open space the master shouted, "maintenant, sortez, sortez!" and he disappeared, thankfully no doubt. Another story of his later days has its touching side. This was also on occasion of an examination. A young man was sent to the blackboard to demonstrate a difficult problem. He began well, "Bene, bene, said the professor, "avanti, avanti! benissimo! avanti! bravo!" and in this way he swept on his pupil, till suddenly the the [sic] young man became confused at a certain point, could not collect himself, trembled, turned pale, and Plana in his heat seized the chalk, dashed out what the profe student had done, recommended the demonstra tion carried it on with the rapidity of lightning till he reached the very same point and there, by some strange fatality he became confused himself, lost the thread and could not recover it. After a moment's pause he exclaimed as he hurled the chalk to the opposite side of the lecture- room, Ecco cosa si guadagna! vivendo fra le bestie s'imbestialisce!" and he immediately went on to speak of something else. After the Abbé left us Mr Marsh went to the ministerial ball - crowded, hot, but most brilliantly decorated - in other respects like other balls - Tuesday Jan, 26 We took a long drive after a hurried morning at home. All my spare thought & moments are now given to making collections for the Sanitary Fairs. This evening I got the promise of a note from Silvio Pelico from the Countess Castellani whom I took again to Matteucci's lecture [illegible] Matteucci was more than himself to-night - but we were distracted by the sudden appearance of a notoriety among us quite unlooked for - Madame Rattazzi Solms Bonaparte attended by a woman like unto herself and followed by her pitiable-looking spouse. The lady came in very late wore a maroon-colored velvet dress & cloak, the former trimmed with narrow bands of ermine from the bottom of the skirt to the knee. Around the bottom of the cloak was a [illegible] border of ermine ten inches deep at least. This garment she threw off as soon as she took her seat and disposed in [it] on her chair so as best to display its rich white satin quilted lining. Then too she had an opportunity of showing the taille of her dress a la jockey trimmed likewise with ermine. As soon as she had finished adjusting herself she raised her eye glass, in her whitegloved-hand covered with rings, and surveyed the audience with a look of cool impudence such as I never before saw in man or woman - it was sublime in its scornful indifference. The image of the Great King of Babylon had less brass in it than this creature carries in her face. Poor Rattazzi sat not far off, his serpentine head drapped now on this shoulder, now on that. Is she pretty, beautiful? Her expression is so vulger that it is almost a sacrilege to apply such terms to her and yet I can see that a heart & a conscience would have made her most beautful - no, I must add also the training of a lady, for as she is she does not know how to use her handkerchief without giving offense to good breeding. Wednesday Jan 27th. The Countess Gigliucci brought me some treasures for the N. York S. C. Fair, among them a long letter to her husband from Gioberti, the signature only in his hand She promises more nice things and I know she will keep word. While she was still with me the Countess Col- legno was announced - one of those true souls that come out glorious from the trial by fire. She is much younger than her sister the Marquesa Arconati and has in some respects had a wider experience. In speaking of her own life she says she was never happy happier than when her hus- band, an exile, supported her in Paris by giving lessons and when she never had more than one servant for her modest apartment and when she opened the door to her visitors herself! She knows many Americans and loves them, but it is our antislavery heroes & martyrs for whom she kindles into admiration. The Gasparins she knows per- sonally and praised unboundedly. One might expect her religious predju prejudices would make her less sensible of their great merits, but it is not so. She left me with a promise to send an autograph of Manzoni for the great Fair. The Brows [Browns] came as she went out - their odd mother must have fur- nished them with their brains, of a commodity they do not lack. - I sent C. to the Regio with Mme Bar- toleyns and went to bed early & tired & [illegible] lost a visito visit from my chatty friend Miss Arbesser by the in consequence. Thursday 28th After a great many ineffectual efforts at combination Mr Marsh and I succeeded in getting to Mr Meille's three o'clock lecture at the little room used by the English on Sunday - Carrie in the meantime driving about to leave packages, cards, &c. The lecture was an interesting one, and the first prayer one of the most beautiful in every respect that I have ever heard. On our return we found new sets of cards implying more work of course. Friday 29th. I was not well this morning but did not like to miss Ruscalla's lecture, so took Mme Gajani there as usual. The Countess Piola came with Miss Ruscalla, and asked to be presented to me after the Lecture. She did not interest me in the least, though her features were very peculiar, a large, full, cold, grey eye, shaded by black lashes and thick black eyebrows. Her hair also was very black and a very unmistakable black moustache fringed her upper lip. I should have taken her for a Neapolitan - never certainly for a Hollendaise. Yet this is the woman who some twenty years ago agitated the little kingdom of Piedmont by running away from her Protestant father, then Minister from Holland at this Court, and taking refuge in a convent. Though it was perfectly understood that the young lady's object in abandoning her father's house and the religion in which she was educated, was to marry Count Piola, a connection her father opposed, yet even the Carlo Alberto himself admitted that once in a convent he had no power to reach her. On hearing this admission from the lips of the King himself the indignant Minister said - 'Then your Majesty must pardon me if I refuse longer to represent my country at a court where the Kingly power power is ineffectual to protect me and my family. Accordingly he resigned his post, but oddly enough his son, Heldewier, now represents the Dutch government here. Saturday Jan 30th While preparing to go last evening to hear Bon Compagni, I was suddenly taken ill and obliged to go directly to my bed. Mr Marsh and Carrie went to the Lecture at my earnest entreaty, but the Elliot ball was given up. I should have mentioned yesterday that the poor Marchesa Doria passed away Thursday night at mid- -night, and in the night last night the body was removed to the chapel at Montallo, one of the family seats. There was no ceremony of any kind here, partly it is said in order that the Carnival gaities may not be saddened. Carrie received the Menabreas today, but other visits were declined. Madame Gigliucci sent in more nice things for the fair. She is really a noble creature. Mr Marsh and Carrie passed the evening at her house, and she sang to them most delightfully. Among her treasures she has two copies of verses by Charles Lamb in his own hand - one is addressed to her individually as Saint Clare, the other to the Sisters Novello. She has an Album too containing lines from Coleridge, Capital things from Leigh Hunt etc. Sunday 31 Jan. After church Mr Marsh read to me as usual, but I felt almost too weak and ill to listen, and was hardly sorry when he was called back to his Library by gentlemen visitors. In the evening he went to a diplomatic dinner at the Malarets. Monday February 1st Another weary wasted day in bed, and made still more trying by visitors whom I could not receive. Husband went to the Court Ball in the evening, taking Mr Artoni in his new uniform with which he is much pleased. The Ball was far more brilliant than the first. Tuesday 2nd I managed to lie on the sofa near the window long enough to settle up the monthly accounts, & then returned to my bed tired out. In the evening Mr Marsh and Carrie were to have gone to Brofferio's Lecture, but the former did not feel well after dinner and it was given up. Worse still - we missed a visit from Dall'Ongaro who came after the Lecture and found us shut up. Wednesday 3rd I fled to Carrie's room to get away from the dancing-lesson, and the visitors it brings. I was sorry to be obliged to refuse to see the Countess Gigliucci, but could not help it. The great excitement of the last two or three days has been the actual breaking out of hostilities between the Germans and the Danes, but nobody thinks the strife will go far just at present. England will be guilty of any meanness rather than oppose Prussia and Austria by arms. She will see Denmark basely cut to pieces and never stir. - At the same time she tells Italy - 'Yes you have a right to Venice, but if you presume to strike a blow to get it, we shall help Austria defend herself against you.' Great and just England! Besides the dancers the Castagnettos payed Carrie a visit, and the abbé Baruffi and Mr Clay helped the rest of the family off with the evening while I moped on my sofa in my own room. Thursday Friday February 4th This morning I took my old place on the sofa in the drawing room, but only in wrapper & shawl. The day is lovely and the gentlemen have taken advantage of it for a long walk. Dr Monnet comes to propose to take Carrie to the Regio tonight. Miss Arbesser passed the evening with me in her usual good spirits, but mentioned some circumstances about her health which give me great anxiety. She has kept secret consequences of a slight accident at Naples six months ago until I greatly fear a very serious result. She is to see a physician Sunday morning. Among the small gossip of the evening Miss Arbesser told us some anecdotes of her little princess not without interest. Her monthly allowance in pocket-money is ten francs, and out of this she has to furnish herself with drawing pencils - also if she wishes to make Christmas presents to friends, or any other gifts they must be saved out of this sum in the course of the year. Little Madame Marguerite laid aside last year two francs every month to make Miss Arbesser a New Year's present, and scarcely anything of the rest was spent upon her own pleasures. This winter, having little or nothing to give to the poor she and prince Thomas gathered up what they could spare from among their books and playthings, put them into a Lottery, sold the tickets to the little Marchesine and Marchesini, Contessine and Contessini who are now allowed to dance and play with them, and in this way they raised about 200 francs! Friday Feb. 5th Brother Charles is quite ill today from a cold taken yesterday. We are all feeling rather blue, but Mr Marsh and Carrie had to go to a Ball nevertheless, at the Elliots, - very grand and gay. Saturday 6th I was vexed beyond measure to find that old Peter Browne had made Mr Marsh promise to come and dine with him this evening. The silly old hypocrite who ought to be totally suppressed, thinks he makes up for his impertinent arrogance in talking of American affairs, by asking Mr Marsh to dine with him! - In general I have small con- cern in watching over our personal dignity, but in this case I wish Mr Marsh had declined. Luckily Dall'Ongaro's Lecture for tonight is given up or it would have been a double penance to have dined with old Peter, and missed the poet in consequence Brother Charles is not better, and we feel very anxious. Sunday 7th Feb. Contrary to all our habits Mr Marsh and Carrie went to a Ball tonight at the Roràs. Mr Marsh felt there were reasons why it would not do to decline, so they went for a couple of hours coming home at twelve. The beautiful Marchesa was almost outshone by her still more beautiful sister in law the Countess. So these little things take up our time and thoughts while the flames of war are blazing in the North, and while even the very men and women here who are the gayest would not be surprised at any moment to hear the canon in their own frontier. Monday - February 8th We are so happy to see Charles better this morning. We had an unusually quiet day and all were rejoiced to be allowed to stay at home for one evening, and be left to our- -selves too. Tuesday 9th Mrs Tottenham came in early with Madeline and we had a nice talk which we have not had for a long time before. She is severe in her judgment (an unusual thing for her) of the Duchess de la Force, and says Mrs Elliot is greatly annoyed at being obliged to receive her, her cousin-ship to the Malarets making it unavoidable. Mrs T_. thinks she has pos- -itive evidence that the duchess, after repeated attempts, managed to cajole Garibaldi into her apartment, in a secret cabinet of which, she had concealed a French officer, and in this way every word the hero said was transmitted to the Emperor. If I believed that this woman [illegible] was really a spy of Louis Napoleon I would sooner see a serpent than her; but these English are so besotted with the idea their suspicions about French spies that one must not trust too much to their testimony. At any rate I have never felt like courting the duchess, and am naturally enough not the more drawn towards her after this Garibaldi story. In one thing at least I could enter into Mrs T__'s feelings - - the Denmark affair mortifies her extremely, and she says her son in the navy writes that if England is not willn willing to eat still more dirt he shall soon be sent to the Baltic. I wanted to add: 'England will eat more dirt' - but I had too much respect for the feelings of this dear good woman. Saint as she is she was a little ruffled by her morning's adventure. She had been to the Hotel Féder to see Mrs __ a more than millionaire, that lady wishing her to go out shopping with her. After detaining Mrs T__. more than an hour while she attended to some trifling matters, the rich dame ordered a lunch of bread and butter and vin ordinaire. When they had eaten what they liked the wealthy witch spent a quarter of an hour in gathering up the fragments and locking them up together with the third part of the bottle of wine, "for," said she, "these scraps and this bit of wine ye know'll do for my supper." !!! The Gajanis spent the evening with us till Mr Marsh and Carrie went to spend the remainder of the night at the Pasolinis. At midnight carnival died, and was burned, amidst the roar of small arms and the flying of fireworks. I wish it were indeed the end of the carnival, but the gala corso is still to come off. Mr Marsh and Carrie thought the masking and the comic procession very indifferent on Monday, - they did not go to the Coriandoli today. Mrs Gajani brought me an autograph from Dall' Ongaro. She is very active for the fair - has got a capital letter from Silvio Pellico among other things. Wednesday 10th We did not go to church this morning partly because it was so bitter cold. The Countess Gigliucci entertained me for an hour in her best way. Miss Arbesser passed the evening with us. She says that the Marquis della Rovere told her that when he and the Marquise were at Pegli last summer they found themselves just opposite the Rattazzis at the Tâble d'hôte. Mme Rattazzi immediately inquired of her husband who Mme della Rovere was. Rattazzi tried to keep her quiet, but finally was obliged to say that it was the Marquise della Rovere. "Pas grand' chose, n'est-ce-pas?" said this scion of the House of Napoleon. Thursday. 11. February, Husband left this morning for Milan the King goes this afternoon. There will be gay times there no doubt. The Countess Collegno brought her niece Miss Trotti to see Carrie. This young lady is a granddaughter of Manzoni, a nice girl who speaks English very prettily. Mme Collegno's visit was delightful to me. We talked of so many mutual acquaintances - Mme Ossoli, the Brownings, the Brooks, &c. &c. This lady has all that is most charming in the Italian character with that wider experience which enriches life so vastly - She told me much of Manzoni who spends some months with the Arconatis every summer. She says his shyness towards strangers arises from the fact that his trifling conversations with them have been so often noted down and printed. With his intimate friends however he is most genial, his conversation being still full of wit and sprightliness. At this advanced age (78) nothing escapes his observation; not even a lady's toilette. His heavy family trials have greatly affected him, but they have not broken him down. His lovely wife died when his children were all young, leaving two sons and five daughters. Of the last, all but one died before the age of twenty four. Neither of the sons have done him credit. The oldest, the least unworthy married a danseuse. Morally the poor girl has done well, but without education, without the manners of a lady what a daughter-in-law for Manzoni. This son however lives with him. The other (says Mme Collegno) has sunk far lower, has trailed the great name of Manzoni in the dust - in short has done all a young man could do to break his father's heart, But above all this the noble old man has risen. At times he is deeply depressed, but generally cheerful and contented. Friday - 12. February Mrs Gajani and I decided on a drive instead of going to Ruscalla's Lecture as we have found it impossible to understand him at his last readings, he holding his manuscript just before his mouth and articulating very rapidly. The Opinione this morning has a most warlike article, in which England is hit very hard. In fact the war fever is spreading very fast. Austria continues to make new and more threatening demonstrations on the Italian frontier every day. Even Gajani who is a peace- -man just now, thinks war probable. Returning from our drive I stopped below to pay a visit to Mme Ghirardi - alias the Marquise d'Angennes. Poor thing She is in great distress about her son, first because he has run away with a danseuse, and second because she is afraid if he comes back it will only be to be off again to the wars. I tried to comfort her, but there is little comfort to be given to a mother under such circumstances - . "Ah," said she, "I am working so hard to save my fortune for my children, I am ruining my health, and breaking my heart for them, and they - they are so ungrateful." She really seems thankful to us for not tormenting her with our wants about the house, and graciously told me that I was an angel not to com- -plain more than I have done. In the evening C. and I went for the Countess Castellani, and then with her to the Lecture. The subject was; The Revelations of Light, - and Prof. Govi was delightfully clear and eloquent. His experiments were generally successful, and many of them beautiful - . The hall was crowded to overflowing, many stood and many went away. These Lectures are now a decided success, and the only danger is that they will be given so frequently as to lessen or destroy the interest in them. I had the Countess Collegno at my side, and she managed to find time to tell me of Mme Arconati's unsuccessful trip to Nervi to cure a sore throat. She was overtaken by a snowstorm before arriving at Genoa, detained there, and nearly perishing with the cold. Saturday 13th We all worked over our old autographs the whole morning - I might say the whole day, for nobody came to disturb us till evening. We shall really have a very rare and curious collection to send to the N.Y. fair for the San. Com. In the evening the abbé Baruffi came to report progress. He too will get quite a nice collection. Carrie read Kalewala to me after he left. I really enjoy it almost more than on the first reading. Sunday 14 - After we returned from church Mr Valerio came to see me and added many curious particulars to the life of the Marchesa Barolo, as given by the canonico - in the Gazetta Ufficiale. There her family, her beauty, her talents her wealth, and her charity are made conspicuous as they well deserve to be, and her superstitions are kept out of sight. It was she however who discovered the relics of Saint Philomene, brought the bones from Rome, placed them under her bed, and was in this way entirely cured of the Cataleptic attacks to which she had been pre- -viously subject. The bones were then brought out for public adoration, then covered with wax so as to rep- -resent a handsome young woman, and this image was placed in a rich sarcofagus with glass sides, the figure within being dressed in magnificent robes and adorned with precious stones. The Jesuits carried off the adornments and the votive offerings when they fled from Turin in ’48, but the wax and bones were left. It does seem sad indeed that a woman of so much talent and so many virtues should have fallen in to such a miserable folly as this. Valerio also gave me an interesting account of his early life in Turin, of Lorenzo’s establishing a small paper here, of his difficulties with the government in general and Count Lazzari, the chef de police, in particular - of Carlo Alberto’s anger about a speech he made at the meeting of an agricultural society, and of many other things connected with the good old time that might afford lessons to many an American grumbler. He also explained how it was that some thirty of the famous old families here were now very poor. Monday 15th Mr Marsh came home from Milan about one, The King’s visit there went off extremely well. There were a great many blunders about invitations and little points of etiquette, but nothing that led to serious trouble. Out of respect to the democratic feeling of Milan nobody wore uniforms - not even to the court Ball or the Court dinner - At the dinner Mr Marsh had Prince Amadeo on one Hand, & General Menabrea on the other - He think the Prince has excellent sense, and is quite of the Carlo Alberto type. Menabrea is always agreeable. Her Royal Highness explained the diminished magnificence of dress and equipage at Milan by the fact of the failure of the silk and wine for so many years - The throwing of the confetti was very lively - the French Legation joined Mr Marsh on his balcony the first day bringing with them more than fifteen bushels of plaster of Paris confetti. These gentlemen all wore their roughest hunting suits, and, to use Mr Marsh’s expression, they screamed and Pa-ruc-h-ere - sign seen in Milano yelled like pirates,’ as they pelted the unhappy people in the streets and on the opposite and neighboring balconies. The next day Mr Marsh furnished the fifteen bushels of coriandoli and the Frenchmen diverted themselves immensely as on the day before. There are few things that would more astonish a sober New Englander than to see for the first time a whole city gone mad in this way, but it is surprising how soon one feels disposed to take part in the frolic - One car amused Mr Marsh very much. The chief personage in it represented the Arch-duke Maximilian, and the car bore the inscription Via pel Messico! Tuesday 16th Worked all day nearly in sorting out autographs for the fair, and were fortunate in having fewer interruptions than usual, the Countesses Maggiolini and Giletta being the only ones. In the evening Doctor Monnet came to look after Mr Marsh who had last night one of his not infrequent attacks of suffocation, and by far the most terrible one he has ever had. The Dr. con- -firms our belief that it was purely mechanical, arising from the falling of the palate, or, as he calls it the [illegible] louette, though I could see plainly that he feared it was a symptom of advanced heart-disease. Wednesday 17th The war-talk grows louder and louder, The Ministry here is thought to be shaky and some even dream of Ricasoli’s return. This reminds me to make a record of a most delicately turned note which I received from him yesterday inclosing some photographs with his signature. Some talk of Rattazzi as possibly the next Minister, and argue this partly because the King spoke to Madame in Milan. I hope Italy is not reduced to this yet. Today we have had some fine presents for the fair - a very nice gun which is supposed to be from Garibaldi - twenty photographs from him with his signature and with a beautiful note. - some most interesting autographs from Signor Migliavacca of Milan - some fine engravings from the editors of the Politecnico - also some water colour copies from Albani - and one beautiful photograph of the Il Moderno Caino. V. Vela also has sent us some photographs of his charming works. Most of these things we owe to the zeal of Col. Ripetti. Husband, also, has got a shy at the Marchesa della Rocca, who wrote this morning to ask a favour of him which he grants cheerfully with the intimation that she can do as much for him in return by looking up autographs etc. This evening while the Abbé Baruffi with his Norwegian friend Lieblein were with us, the Gajanis came in. It seemed a pleasant meeting between the Abbé & Gajani, the latter reminding the former of many services received from him in past years. Little Lieblein professes to have made interesting discoveries in the Egypt- -ian Museum, does not believe in Lepsius’ chronology etc Friday, 19th. I should have mentioned Govi’s second lecture on light this evening - very in- teresting - experiments most successful - theory concerning the falling stars, etc. The lecture- room was crowded, and a gentleman near Mr M. said, in answer to another who was commenting on the large number of ladies present, “Ma quando queste lezione sono accompangate da esperienze capiscono qualche coda!” Thursday. Feb. 18th Worked all of us the whole day for the fair. In the evening C. went with the countess Colegno and Miss Trotti to the V. Emanuel. Preston Powers passed the evening with us. Friday Feb. 19th Gave orders to receive no one and worked uninterruptedly in preparing our box for N. Y. The only visit it grieved me to miss was Madame Rothan’s. Ibbotson & Powers dined with us. The former I have not seen before since his wedding-day with Julie Powers. He is a very pleasing young man & gave us an interesting account of his iron-works at Sheffield. Sat. Feb. 19th [20th] We were just in time with our box for the messagerie this evening. Miss Arbesser came in at half past nine to pass the evening just as I was thinking I might safely go to bed with my aching head & eyes! Sunday Feb. 20th. [21st] Two feet of snow have fallen since yesterday morning. It ceased before noon, but not a carriage was astir through the day except the Sindic’s - Roca’s. Young Kossuth however managed to get to us, and Dr Monnet in the evening. Really this winter is quite extraordinary. Monday February 22. Klapka spent an hour with husband this morning, talking over European Politics with the greatest freedom. His hopes are not high. He says the only hope chance of any good is that Italy will make war on Austria now. Otherwise the golden opportunity is lost and perhaps forever. Hungary, now ready to rise at the least encouragement from Italy, will soon be compelled by the terrible family famine now prevailing there to submit to an accommodation with Austria. Then Austria will carry out the programme agreed upon, as he thinks, by herself, Prussia & Russia - viz, rush down upon Italy and crush out if possible the spirit of nationality and progress, and restore the old order of things. This may not be so difficult with no Hungary to kindle a backfire & with Rome [illegible] clutching at the heart of the new kingdom. The French Emperor (with whom he has, as every knows frequent interviews) will not, he says, aid Italy further than to secure Lombardy to Piedmont that is, to protect for her the property he gave as purchase money for Savoy. He thinks England less likely to interfere at present in favour of Austria than she would have been fo before the Denmark invasion - at any rate there is no prospect of a more favorable moment and he hopes the Italians may seize this, though he is by no means confident that they will do so. The first step, he says, is to bring about a good understanding between Garibaldi & this government – a sine qua non to success in a con- flict with Austria. He put Garibaldi where we do among the formost rank of heroes, patriots & soldiers. “His age does not know him.” The estimation Mr M. has long felt for Klapka as a man of great talent and noble purpose was not diminished by this interview Unlike most agitators (a class I respect generally) he is singularly practical as even the Conservatives admit. The weather did not secure me against lady-visitors as I hoped it would. Tuesday Feb. 23d My housekeeper informed me last evening that there was a kitchen-feud had arisen which must end in the dismissal of the cook’s handmaid. In the course of the explanation a circumstance came up which diverted me not a little. This woman complained of bad treatment at the hands of the cook’s wife who, [illegible] she says, is jealous of her, and as a proof of this she asserts that Susanne forbid Carlo to speak to her and ordered him, whenever she (the wife) was not in the kitchen, to whistle in order that she might hear him & be sure he was not talking! The fact of the almost constant whistling was proved, but the positive order could not be proved substantiated as Carlo & Susanne could not be asked to testify in so delicate a case! Carrie went this morning to ask little Miss Trotti to go with her in the evening to the Teatro Regio with her uncle to take charge of the two. Mme Collegno said that she should like much to have her go if there was to be a matron in the box - otherwise it would not be well received! She added very politely that strangers always went in the way I had proposed, and this being well understood nobody criticized it, but for her niece she was sorry to say, it would not do. With all I have previously learned of the stupidity of their convenance here, I was not prepared for this - that a man of over sixty - of Mr Marsh’s character and position - should not be a sufficient protection for his own niece and a little friend of hers, still a school-girl! Wednesday 24th The Countess Gigliucci sat with me through the dancing-lesson, which the girls managed to spin out to a three-hour one. Almost anyone else would have tired me, but she, bright soul, earnest and gay at once, never tires. Even the occasional liberties she takes with English have something so free and fresh about them that they make her more than less agreeable. In short everything about her is so perfectly natural, so genuine, so hearty, that I constantly ask myself: “Is it possible that this woman has passed so many years of her life on a stage?’ If it is by their fruits that they are to be known, the theatrical education would certainly carry off the palm from the conventual one. We discussed the Germans pretty thoroughly in their present robber-raid into Denmark, and sympathized with each other heartily. The position of the princess of Wales, the Countess thinks most pitiable. She gives her husband credit for very little brains, and says the German influence in England will control him completely. Of the invitation to the Arch-duke Maximilian to be present at the baptism of the son of the Prince and princess of Wales, she said - What an insult to that young mother! The brother of the very man who is eating out the heart of her native land, and threatening to drive her father from his Kingdom. She also com- -mented with much severity on the course of the Princes of Wales and Prussia, two Protestants coming to Italy and passing by the chosen King of that country, hurrying on to Rome to pay their humble duty to a “dazed old pope” and to a detested ex-king. “I am a Catholic” she added “but I don’t respect a member of the Gustav-Adolph-Verein the more for going to pay court to this crazy old Pope.” Miss Arbesser came after I was in bed, but I adopted the fashion of the country for once, and saw her in my nightcap. She was quite dismayed when I told her that Mme Collegno thought Miss Trotti could not go with Carrie under Mr Marsh’s protection, ‘I must have committed some terrible improprieties, but in Vienna where we carry convenance quite far enough such an idea would be thought supremely ridiculous. The poor little Princess Marguerite said this evening with a sigh “I wonder where I shall have to go when I am grown - I wish it might be to Brazil for there I could amuse myself with monkeys and parrots!” Poor child, may you be so happy! Something was added by Miss Arbesser with “if you should live….” “Live!” said the child, “I had rather you wouldn’t speak to me about death now - I think enough of that when I am alone.” “Alone!” said the astonished gouvernante “but you are never alone!” “Oh yes, I am alone when I say my prayers, and I am alone when I go to sleep - that is, nobody is very near me, and nobody speaks to me.” Thursday 25 The countess Collegno put to flight my first visitor, & the Browns put her to flight in return, much to my annoyance as she was interesting me so much by her charming conversation. Oh ye Sligos! I did not present the young ladies to the Countess Collegno, but knowing their habits of making unfavourable comments upon all who come under their eye, I took care to say as she passed out - ‘That lady I count among my best friends in Turin.” “Ah, who is she then?” said the youngest, and on hearing the name the eldest exclaimed “Oh, I thought she was like Mme Arconati, and Mme __, such ugly faces!” “They are past the age of being handsome,’ I said, ‘so far as mere beauty of outline goes certainly, but the expression of both the sisters whom I know is so refined, so be- -nevolent, and so intelligent at once, that it would be a pleasure to me to look at them, even independently of their delightful talk.’ “But they have such odious manners!”, said the eldest Miss Brown again. At this I expressed the greatest surprise, insisting with a degree of spirit that I felt decidedly getting up to the boiling point that I found their manners always ladylike, always courteous, and in all respects to my taste.’ “Then,” said the youngest “perhaps you like stuck-up manners.” As the impertinence was now directed against me instead of my friends I felt calmer at once. “No, I do not like stuck-up manners if I understand what you mean by the phrase, and yet I like the manners of the ladies we are talking of.' Here the youngest Miss Brown seemed to think she might have gone too far, and said – “Perhaps you don’t visit them in their own house. It is there they are so disagreeable. I wonder people ever cross their thresh hold twice”. Here I changed the subject so abruptly that I intended they should take it as a rebuke and think they did. In a moment more we were talking of the practice of having reception-days &c. &c. The young ladies declaimed with much warmth against this practice, and declared that they would no longer pay visits on these occasions, as they found that everywhere the ladies did nothing but abuse each other - a habit which they thought as ill bred as unchristian. Had these young ladies been as brainless as their old father I should not have been surprised at these expressions of condemnation of evil-speaking, even so close upon their amiable comments on the Marchesa Arconati and her sisters. As it was I could not quite restrain a look of astonishment, but they were too much interested in their new subject to notice my look or my silence. They proceeded to inform me that the Piedmontese ladies could not talk anything but slander when they got together - that they were themselves so thoroughly shocked at them in this respect that they had almost entirely ceased to visit them. “Perhaps,’ I said ‘I have seen too little of them to be placed on a footing of sufficient familiarity to allow them to talk so freely before me, but I must say that for myself I have heard very little evil speaking from any of them.’ The young ladies went on to assert that it must be because I had not been to these morning receptions - furthermore that nobody could know anything about the Turinese without very special opportunities - that they were to the last degree untidy in their habits, that the ladies neither washed nor dressed except when they went out, - that as soon as they returned home they put on some vile old rag for a dress instead of the fine gown just shown in the street - that they sat down to dinner in this way - that their servants were on a par with themselves for cleanliness, - that they were too mean to light their fires or have the gas burning on their staircases or in their drawing rooms unless when guests were expected - that they used old pewter spoons and forks habitually instead of their silver which was put away for some quarterly festa, that as soon as the spring came they dismissed all their grand servants, & took a housemaid or two into the country with them “where they live like disgusting pigs as they are.” Anxious lest my amiable visitors might reproach themselves after they left if I allowed this thing to go on, I here abruptly asked them if they had read Renan’s Life of Jesus which had made such a noise in Italy. This corner, which was even a more sharp turn than the first threw them somewhat off the track, and we managed to let our neighbors alone for the rest of the visit. How often we have occasion to see the great truth exemplified that the good and the bad qualities are always found more or less mingled together. These young ladies, who certainly put themselves this morning in a most unfavourable light, are charitable to the poor, are self-denying in performing their duties towards them, and I believe really do much good in that way. Their snarling, fault-finding language about others seems a sort of family habit, and I do not think there is real ill-feeling at the bottom, dis- -agreeable as it makes them to others. Mr Marsh dined with the Elliots, and the Moriondos spent the evening with us, and didn’t talk about their neighbors either, though they are Turinese, and the lady’s bright face was not suffering for want of water. Mr Moriondo told us that the phenomenon of red snow had been seen within a day or two near Vergato. He is much pleased with the various seeds Mr Marsh has given him from Washington, and promises to look out well for them next spring. Friday 26th For the first time in Turin I received a lady in my bed-room this morning - the dear old Marchesa Arconati, and having done this I could not refuse the Countess Gigliucci in the evening though sadly against my judgment so far as health is concerned. She was admirably entertaining as usual, but I was flushed and tired when she left. She gave a picture of Isabella of Spain that really made one’s flesh quiver. It was drawn as she saw her when she sang at the Court of Madrid. Her sketch of Cardinal Wiseman with his bloated person, in black cassock lined with red, with red gloves, and here and there a red stripe about him, looking more like a mountebank that a prelate, and followed by A visit from Matteucci was lost by Mr Marsh's being at Ruscalla's Lecture, and my being in bed. some thirty quasi-monks and nuns, was one I should not have expected from a good Catholic. The girls returned from the Lecture on the steam-engine not over edified, - the poor young man succeeded in sending off two out of his eight female auditors, and nearly half the gentlemen before he concluded. Saturday 27th The Marquis de Cavour died very suddenly yesterday, having been in church it is said at twelve o’clock and expiring at two - apoplexy it is thought. His son, who succeeds to the title is in Paris. The report of Dr. Livingstone’s assassination is most likely true, though there is some faint hope it may not be so. The acceptance of the proposal for a conference made by England to Austria and Prussia will probably secure the termination of the Northern quarrel; It will be done however by forcing Denmark to sacrifice the Duchies, for this is what they call “preserving the integrity of Denmark”! I was glad Mr Marsh happened to be in during Levi’s visit this morning. It is curious to see how these poor Italian’s catch at straws. As the chance of a favourable opportunity for doing anything this spring diminishes, they are beginning to look forward with hope to the moment when we shall turn on England, and demand reparation for the wrongs done us. In this way they flatter themselves England may be kept from interfering in behalf of Austria, should they try to recover Venice. It would be some consolation if England could be made to hear the scorn and the curses which are heaped upon her by the liberal party in Europe. Levi had just received Dr Sargeant’s pamphlet. He begs that we will have something done to make the history of our war better known in Italy. I told him I had just written to Dr Lieber on the subject. Castillia came in this evening just as Mr Gajani and his brother went out - dear old saint that he is! His deafness afflicts him greatly, but it has not abated his noble enthusiasm in every great cause. His affection for our country is very touching, He told us, rather an interesting anecdote of Manzoni during the embargo days. The poet obtained some cotton seeds, nursed the plants tenderly in his own garden, and then had the produce manufactured into a counterpane for his own bed. Sunday 28th A rainy day today - Carrie only, going to church. We were quite alone through the whole day, and had some nice quiet reading. By the way husband is much interested in Tomaseo’s Life of Vieusseux, as being not only the sketch of the life of a remarkable man, but as containing so much of the literary history of Italy during this last half century. Monday 29th The brightest, softest of Spring mornings, our birds are screaming with delight. Leone, the nightin- -gale being particularly stormy. - Poor fellow, he has lost his mate through the carelessness of the housemaid who refuses to testify against herself, leaving the face of Bice somewhat in the dark. Not feeling strong enough to to venture out twice to-day, I chose the evening that I might hear Matteucci’s lecture. He had an admirable audience but he rattled on with such volubility, indicating only, not performing, his experiments, that it was very difficult to follow him - even the natives complained bitterly & to us barbarians it was harder still. Dear good Madame Collegno was by me, and was quite in raptures about Mme Rothan whom she had met the evening before at her sister Arconatis.